Published at Tuesday, July 18th 2017. by Solaina in Flooring.
Working in the flooring industry we often have customers calling us because they are interested in a solid oak floor. More often than not we end up suggesting they go down the engineered route and then being asked the same thing, `why choose an engineered wood floor over a solid oak floor and does it really feel and look as beautiful?` We are writing this article to briefly outline the main advantages of our engineered wood flooring and why now so many people are choosing the engineered over the traditional solid oak flooring. Throughout this article I will write in reference to a top quality engineered oak flooring with multiple layers of ply wood under core and a thick, long lasting wear layer. I can not speak on behalf of all engineered wood floors as they differ massively in quality and price. In all cases you need to check thoroughly the specifications of the product on offer.
Most popularly used in bathrooms, kitchens, laundry areas and entryways are vinyl sheet, or linoleum floorings. This type of flooring cones in a vast array of colors, textures and patterns, in sheet sizes of 12 foot widths with varying lengths, and made from a vinyl composite, covered with a surface coating. It is installed by applying covering over the sub-floor, usually mahogany or particle core sheets 4`x4` in size, to which the vinyl is glued to. It can also be installed directly onto concrete floors, in areas such as basements. Joining two sheets together is a standard practice when the room width exceeds 12`, or under doorways. Sheet vinyl is a good flooring in areas where water tends to accumulate, like around bathroom fixtures or at entry ways. It is fairly durable, and often maintenance free. Linoleum is one of the cheapest types of flooring to install.
One drawback is that this type of floor requires special hanger systems designed for the joists, to enable them to be hung from each other or against beams/bearing walls. Manufactured joists are becoming a popular flooring system, for they are relatively cheap, reduce labour time and provide adequate support. However, builders need to familiarize themselves with its installations, for poor installation can cause severe structural damage to the joists. A good example is a three point, center bearing joist, left with the top chord uncut, which can potentially fail or pull apart, over the center bearing point.
However if you go for a quality engineered wood flooring you can even gone as far as to boil a piece of our floor for 30 minutes and the board still will not de-laminate. The 15mm ply wood under core is what gives the flooring the strength and stability is has. Oak is a natural product and when used for flooring the board widths can change in size. This can cause gaps between boards or the floor to buckle and this movement is most commonly caused by the changing of humidity in the environment. Because of the stability of a quality engineered oak floor it is far less prone to this movement. This stability is also becoming of greater importance today due to the fact that an increasing number of properties are having under floor heating systems installed, which of course causes a frequent change in humidity. Having said this I would again like to reiterate that I am writing in regards to a quality, higher spec engineered oak flooring, and I can not talk for all engineered wood floors.
In the case of long span truss work, bearing lengths of at least 3" are quite common. Trusses span greater distances than framed floor assemblies and can be designed to span the entire building, eliminating center load bearing supports. They are moderately more expensive than framed floor assemblies, but provide a remarkably strong floor with little deflection or "bounce" to it. Another advantage to this type of structural system, is that utility installations can be run between the webwork components. Never allow trades to cut or drill into the members of a truss, for they are manufactured precisely for the loading conditions they will undergo during the life of the building.
Are you going to be able to enforce the warranty? Also, do you really think that a finish can last a lifetime? For example take a nail and try scraping it across the surface. Sure it is a durable, well applied finish, but it is impossible to make a product that won`t get abused at some point in its lifetime. Do you think that the only serious trial your floor will ever see is a stinky sock? Read the fine print on the warranty and regardless of what it says consider the true replacement cost on the floor. It probably only covers the cost of material of the specific damaged product under normal wear and tear. Your product may not be made exactly the same later (trends and product lines change) to replace the section that is warrantied, so you may have to replace the whole floor years later. You will have labor cost along with displacement of trim, cabinets, and appliances. Also most of these lifetime finishes cannot be repaired or sanded because of a micro bevel put on the edge of prefinished floor. Our advice is instead to buy a quality product that can be refinished and repaired because something will go wrong in the lifetime of the floor; don`t get a false sense of security.