Published at Saturday, July 22nd 2017. by Nynette in Flooring.
Some think of interlocking tiles and immediately think of ugly, heavy, rubber flooring used in the industrial sector. This could not be further from the truth. While interlocking tiles were initially created to serve the industrial sector, they have come a long way since that time. Interlocking floor tiles are now available in an array of finishes and material types. They can be purchased in rubber, plastic, vinyl and porcelain, among many other high quality materials. Virtually any tile material that can be used in a traditional installation can also be used in interlocking floor tiles.
Upgrading to tile floors are a great way to increase home value when someone is considering selling their home. They are also a good option for those that simply want to update their living space. While the expense of flooring might prohibit many people from affording the installation, interlocking tile floors offer the same quality and beauty for a fraction of the price. Interlocking tiles are affordable, durable, versatile and can be used for a variety of custom looks, making them a great option for anyone looking to personalize their home.
Of all the wood flooring, the most often installed is the parquet tile. They consist of square interlocking wood strips, held together with glues and/or metal wires. Often they come as single 6"x6", or multiple 12"x12" square tiles, about 1/4" thick. They are glued directly to the sub-flooring, and are strong enough to span small deviations in it. The wood is often prefinished, and requires little maintenance. Parquet floors are a cheaper alternative to strip flooring, providing the same warm, durable surface.
There are three main types of sub-flooring installed to cover and span the floor structure. It is over this that the finished floor will be placed. The sub-flooring types include raw sheathing, interlocking and strip. It is utilized not only to provide a surface for the interior finishes to be placed on, but also to prevent twisting or torque forces placed on the building. The sub-floor also allows load sharing within the joist framing system. Often the sub-flooring is glued to the joist work to eliminate creaking floors and to prevent the floor joists from turning.
Fourth, factor in the cost of refinishing the floor later or doing touchups. This is a whole another article. Some finishes can be spot touched up like some of the oils while others require a full sand over the whole floor. Some finishes require a professional installer and may have extreme odor during the cure. If you live with the floor for very long, factor these decisions in for the type of finish to choose for lifetime durability and the cost & effort to refinish.
Seventh, are you a do-it-yourselfer? Think through every step of the process to be sure that you can do it yourself. Usually the install can be done with relatively moderate skills and simple tools like a chop saw and rented flooring nailer. The finishing process is a whole different matter. The sanders and buffers take some special skills to operate. A normal price range for labor and materials to install a wood floor is $4-5 per square foot. It is possible to build your own sweat equity into a floor install. Maybe this is where you choose to use our engineered product for example because it is presanded to more accurate tolerances than a solid wood product. It can be touched up with a hand held orbital sander rather than industrial floor sanders. Then if you are doing the finish yourself, you will want to consider using a finish that may not require as much buffing between coats.