Published at Thursday, July 27th 2017. by Orlene in Flooring.
Traditional tile installation requires many tools and lots of patience which have to be pre-set on the floor, cut down to size, then adhered to the floor using a strong industrial glue. They will not stick to every surface and frequently, a layer of floor base must be installed before the tiling work can begin. If the tiles are placed too close together, they can buckle, leaving unsightly bumps and lumps on the floor. If they are placed too far apart, there will be obvious gaps. If a mistake is made when laying down the tile, it is very difficult to fix as the tile is glued to the floor. The tile will have to be pried up, excess adhesive scraped, and the process started over. Laying traditional tile floors is a project that can take several days, to several weeks, to finish.
Of all the wood flooring, the most often installed is the parquet tile. They consist of square interlocking wood strips, held together with glues and/or metal wires. Often they come as single 6"x6", or multiple 12"x12" square tiles, about 1/4" thick. They are glued directly to the sub-flooring, and are strong enough to span small deviations in it. The wood is often prefinished, and requires little maintenance. Parquet floors are a cheaper alternative to strip flooring, providing the same warm, durable surface.
Another good flooring for wet areas is the vinyl tile. Typically it is manufactured in much the same way as sheet vinyl, but is much more rigid and comes as 12"x12" square units. They are installed in the much the same way, but require skilled tradesmen, familiar with proper installation. A good installer will start from the middle of the room to ensure that all cut tiles are equal in width at opposing walls. One advantage to this type of flooring, over sheet vinyl, is that it is can be installed, without danger of joint separation, over large areas. For this reason, it is often used in commercial buildings where large rooms are the norm. Vinyl tile can also be easily installed directly to concrete floors. Like vinyl sheets, it too is resistant to water, and tends to be installed in the areas of a building, prone to water accumulations. Tile, can be easily cleaned, is relatively maintenance free, and one of the cheaper finished floors to install.
Of all, the most commonly installed flooring system are framed floors. They consist of dimensioned lumber, bearing on exterior and interior load bearing walls or beams called "floor joists". Generally the floor joists are installed, spaced 16" apart. Installing rim and trimmer joists, to which the floor joists are nailed, finishes the perimeter. Bracing, usually in the form of bridging, but often installed as strapping, prevents the joists from turning in place. One other method used to prevent this type of turning is to glue the sub-flooring to the joists, as the sub-floor is placed.
Truss floors are simply that. They are constructed from small dimensioned lumber, interconnected in a webwork pattern by the use of metal or wood plates. Occasionally, the trusses will be built on site, utilizing plywood plates to connect the webwork together. Generally they are installed 24" apart, either suspended on bearing walls or beams, or installed with plywood trim or rim joists around the perimeter. Strapping is installed on the bottom side, to prevent turning in place, which is a common ailment for deep truss components.
We personally do not care for prefinished flooring due to installation problems associated with it, so our product requires site applied finish. This means that your floor finish if site applied will be easier to sand and refinish than a prefinished floor. Also you do not have to deal with that micro bevel groove between each board that tends to fill up with dust and crumbs. Most prefinished hardwood floors really can`t be refinished easily. To sand it off means that the wear layer has to be thicker than the height of the nails and have room to sand off the micro bevel between boards; that amounts to a lot of sanding. You also will not be able to spot sand or touch up parts of the floor.