Published at Monday, July 17th 2017. by Nanine in Flooring.
One drawback is that this type of floor requires special hanger systems designed for the joists, to enable them to be hung from each other or against beams/bearing walls. Manufactured joists are becoming a popular flooring system, for they are relatively cheap, reduce labour time and provide adequate support. However, builders need to familiarize themselves with its installations, for poor installation can cause severe structural damage to the joists. A good example is a three point, center bearing joist, left with the top chord uncut, which can potentially fail or pull apart, over the center bearing point.
Most popularly used in bathrooms, kitchens, laundry areas and entryways are vinyl sheet, or linoleum floorings. This type of flooring cones in a vast array of colors, textures and patterns, in sheet sizes of 12 foot widths with varying lengths, and made from a vinyl composite, covered with a surface coating. It is installed by applying covering over the sub-floor, usually mahogany or particle core sheets 4`x4` in size, to which the vinyl is glued to. It can also be installed directly onto concrete floors, in areas such as basements. Joining two sheets together is a standard practice when the room width exceeds 12`, or under doorways. Sheet vinyl is a good flooring in areas where water tends to accumulate, like around bathroom fixtures or at entry ways. It is fairly durable, and often maintenance free. Linoleum is one of the cheapest types of flooring to install.
Installing interlocking floor tiles is a much easier and user friendly process. They are designed to clip together, eliminating the need for measuring spaces and also leaving room for the tiles to settle. Each tile is surrounded with divots that lock to the other interlocking floor tiles. They clip together easily, much like a jigsaw puzzle, and allow a perfect seamless finish. If a mistake is made while installing the interlocking tiles, it is easy to fix. Simply pull them apart and start over. As no adhesive is generally used, they do not need to be pried up, risking damage to the floor.
Fourth, factor in the cost of refinishing the floor later or doing touchups. This is a whole another article. Some finishes can be spot touched up like some of the oils while others require a full sand over the whole floor. Some finishes require a professional installer and may have extreme odor during the cure. If you live with the floor for very long, factor these decisions in for the type of finish to choose for lifetime durability and the cost & effort to refinish.
Fifth, compare overall thickness and the height from the top of the tongue or nail groove to the top of the face on the floor. On an engineered floor this is generally the thickness of a wear layer. Most solid wood floors are 3/4" overall before sanding (but some are less) with 1/4" above the nail groove. Our engineered floor is manufactured to equivalent measurements but most engineered floors have a thinner wear layer. This comes down to how many times the floor can be sanded. What kind of finish and texture you want on the floor factors into how deep you will re-sand the floor during refinishing. A number of our reclaimed wood floors are sold with an original texture that shows the old saw marks and character in the floor, so most likely you won`t want to sand this out. As a rule of thumb, the thicker the wear layer then the longer the floor will last.
If your price-point is not even in the same zip code, maybe it is in a different state, start shopping other options. For example if you are in the $1-2/sf range look at the deep discounters or laminate options. The FSC certified 12mm exterior birch plywood that we use to manufacturer the engineered flooring costs us that much alone, not counting all the other labor and materials.