Published at Thursday, July 13th 2017. by Lundy in Flooring.
Dust, grit and moisture are gifts of nature and we all have to deal with them. Grit which stems from sand or dirt being tracked from the outdoors on the surface works like sandpaper on the floor finish. Dust mites, balls and the like are merely pulverized bits of dirt which in essence acts in the same way as grit over the long haul on your floors. Once your floor finish gets damaged grit and dust left on the surface tend to discolor the hardwood while being ground into the surface pores with each step made on top of it like a hammer pounding stroke after stroke.
Fifth, compare overall thickness and the height from the top of the tongue or nail groove to the top of the face on the floor. On an engineered floor this is generally the thickness of a wear layer. Most solid wood floors are 3/4" overall before sanding (but some are less) with 1/4" above the nail groove. Our engineered floor is manufactured to equivalent measurements but most engineered floors have a thinner wear layer. This comes down to how many times the floor can be sanded. What kind of finish and texture you want on the floor factors into how deep you will re-sand the floor during refinishing. A number of our reclaimed wood floors are sold with an original texture that shows the old saw marks and character in the floor, so most likely you won`t want to sand this out. As a rule of thumb, the thicker the wear layer then the longer the floor will last.
I encourage you being cautious about potential discoloring of the wood floor in direct proportion to the shape of the center rug piece over time. Discoloration will occur not as a result of the throw rug or center rug piece but as a result of sunlight beaming on the wooden floor in areas around the center rug piece. You see, underneath the center rug piece sunlight cannot get to the wood. So, the color of your wooden floor beneath the center rug piece would be lighter in color over time than the exposed areas. I recommend you use throw/scatter rugs instead of center piece or area rugs as these would be more readily removed, freshened or relocated to minimize a lengthy tenure in one location.
Truss floors are simply that. They are constructed from small dimensioned lumber, interconnected in a webwork pattern by the use of metal or wood plates. Occasionally, the trusses will be built on site, utilizing plywood plates to connect the webwork together. Generally they are installed 24" apart, either suspended on bearing walls or beams, or installed with plywood trim or rim joists around the perimeter. Strapping is installed on the bottom side, to prevent turning in place, which is a common ailment for deep truss components.
Working in the flooring industry we often have customers calling us because they are interested in a solid oak floor. More often than not we end up suggesting they go down the engineered route and then being asked the same thing, `why choose an engineered wood floor over a solid oak floor and does it really feel and look as beautiful?` We are writing this article to briefly outline the main advantages of our engineered wood flooring and why now so many people are choosing the engineered over the traditional solid oak flooring. Throughout this article I will write in reference to a top quality engineered oak flooring with multiple layers of ply wood under core and a thick, long lasting wear layer. I can not speak on behalf of all engineered wood floors as they differ massively in quality and price. In all cases you need to check thoroughly the specifications of the product on offer.
All joists must extend at least 1-1/2" on to a bearing assembly, of either a beam or full height wall, unless metal hangers are installed to provide proper bearing support against other structural components. Beams, which support the floor joists over greater spans, are constructed in the form of laminated joists often referred to as built up beams, or one piece solid load bearing beams, cut from logs or manufactured. Electricians and plumber may often cut or drill into the joist work to install utilities, and this is accepted, so long as they do not remove more material than what is required by codes. This type of floor system is usually the cheapest to install.